The Dream Of The 1890s Is Alive In The Mosel

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

There is nothing quite like the light, bracing, barely off-dry style of Riesling in which the Mosel particularly excels. In the 1890s and the first decade of the 20th Century, it was this unique character that grabbed the public's attention and affection, and Mosel Rieslings enjoyed a status not seen since. The current German labeling laws fail to properly account for this style, and some winemakers call it feinherb, some just add a village or vineyard name, and some label it as something else altogether. Regardless of labeling terms, somewhere between a sweeter Kabinett and an austere bone-dry Trocken, there is another dimension which is a specialty of the Mosel.

The changes brought by the 20th Century to German wine were myriad, but on the technological side the introduction of the sterile filter ushered in a new style of sweeter wines – before this, high levels of residual sugar were prone to re-fermenting in the bottle. Eventually these sweeter wine styles were codified by law in 1971 as the Prädikat system, which uses the ripeness categories of Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, etc. However, the less-sweet, latter-day style of the Mosel's heyday is re-emerging - and for good reason. The marriage of tangy, cool-climate acids with lower residual sugar levels is stimulating and refreshing, while alcohol levels around 10% make these wines supremely sessionable (i.e. suitable for a lengthy drinking session). Most of these wines are free of botrytis, which allows for more purity and expression of minerals and Mosel slate.

They are also famously versatile: from oysters to grilled sausages to all things spicy, none of the wines below will be out of place. Many have swooned for Florian Lauer's Barrel X for all the reasons above, but as we wait for the next shipment of 750s to arrive (we do have a few magnums left), why not explore a few others? When all these other producers can show off this classic style with their own unique panache and terroir, it's an invitation to start down a delicious, thirst-quenching path that leads to the historic soul of the Mosel. Jonathan Kemp

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2013 Saar Riesling Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherb 

• Always the best-selling wine in the Falkenstein lineup, and the one with the widest appeal. This comes from the deep-rooted Herrenberg vineyard, mostly gray slate with a few patches of red and blue slate. The wine has just barely enough sugar to take the edge off the tangy structure, but enough to add quite a bit of charm. Still lean, precise, clean, and mineral, but with a gorgeous finesse and energy that is undeniable. A true star of the Saar. 

Julian Haart 2014 Mosel Riesling 1,000 L

• Bottled from a huge, 50 year-old barrel that holds 1,000 liters.This is bright, vivid, intensely refreshing Riesling that finishes with a dusting of minerals and crushed flowers. Chewy texture on the finish with just a slight hint of residual sugar that makes this sultry and deliciously drinkable. Taste why Julian Haart is getting so much attention in the world of German Riesling! From younger vines in the Piesporter Goldtröpchen.

Julian Haart 2014 Mosel Riesling 'Moselle'

• With a touch more ripeness than is found in Haart's '1,000L' bottling, this almost-dry feinherb has such lovely detail and texture to accompany the light sugar and electric backbone of acidity. A touch of orange and cream on the nose, this is superb, bright, structured, and elegant, a bottle to grab when finesse is called for. Grapes come from the Piesporter Goldtröpchen and Wintricher Ohligsberg vineyards and is done in a mixture of steel tank (60%) and traditional Mosel fuder (40%). 

Knebel 2012 Mosel Von den Terrassen Riesling

• 'Von den Terrassen' is a blend of Knebel's four terraced parcels, some of the steepest in all of Germany. Matthias' wines are shaded differently than those of his mentor Gernot Kollmann's at Immich-Batterieberg, though they are made in a similar fashion, with fermentation beginning spontaneously and ending naturally, not being forced to be sweet or dry. Knebel's lineup has a darker tint, full of mineral depth and finesse. These are dangerously drinkable, soulful, and crowd-pleasing. Most people will not detect the residual sugar but they will detect the deliciousness.

Lauer, Peter 2014 Saar Riesling Barrel X 1.5 L

• Anybody's who's tasted this magic elixir will attest to its gulpable, thirst-quenching powers. An energizing beam of zappy refreshment is formed as the lime pith and white grapefruit acids perfectly bond with the pretty, subtle touch of sugar. It finishes nearly dry, with some chewy texture. A perennial favorite and an ambassador to America for this gorgeous, racy style of German glou-glou, it's perfect in this larger format.

Später-Veit 2014 Piesporter Riesling 1 L

•  This slightly off-dry Riesling really leaps out of the glass with lively stone fruit and minerals. Vivacious acidity gives it lift and is matched with silky, ripe pear on the palate, with hint of texture on the finish. This is a standout value in the 1L bottle, and all comes from the gray slate of the Falkenberg parcel, just above the famous Piesporter Goldtröpchen vineyard. Spontaneously fermented in stainless steel. 

Stein 2013 Mosel St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Ries Kabinett Feinherb

•  Utterly inspiring! A delicious display of acid, with just enough sugar to bring out the stone fruit - subtle apricot, nectarine, and peach. Finishes with electricity and minerals. There is so much bracing energy and soulful majesty in this wine but it's hard to resist the temptation to empty the entire bottle in one glorious slug.

Steinmetz, Günther 2013 Mosel Riesling 1 Liter

• The 2013 Liter, due to the greater challenges of the vintage, was sourced from a mixture of Stefan's holdings. Yet the result is hardly a mixed bag: it is just as thrilling a deal as always. Zippy, cool, understated and chalky, with a touch of sweetness that is simply delicious in all its poise and elegance. Refreshing, breezy, endlessly versatile.

Weiser-Künstler 2014 Mosel Riesling Feinherb

• Neither fruity nor sweet, this is instead an exciting display of edgy, tantalizing acids and chalky minerals accompanied by subtle floral aromas, white grapefruit, and lemon. This is very bright, refreshing, energizing wine that carries the distinctive purity we've come to adore from Weiser-Künstler. The grapes for this bottling come mostly from the south-facing Wolfer Sonnenlay vineyard, in a side valley of the Mosel. At 9.5% alcohol, this is an unflinching example of the cleansing, remunerative properties of light, tangy Mosel Riesling.

German Mavericks: The Pinot Noirs of Enderle & Moll

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

When Sven Enderle was growing up in the foothills of the Black Forest, his favorite place to play was in the breezy slopes around Ettenheim, roughly equidistant from Freiburg in Germany and Strasbourg in Alsatian France. Apple trees and grapevines peppered the fields under the protective watch of the tall pines atop the surrounding ridges.

Sadly, much has changed in the decades since, with many of the fruit trees not being maintained, and a shift towards producing high quantities of wine for the lowest costs possible. Of course, this brought lots of Monsanto’s RoundUp, to the great detriment of the soil. Sven and his partner Florian Moll have taken on the meticulous cultivation of as many parcels of older vines as they can manage, doing much of the work by hand and without synthetic chemicals. However, their work has not exactly won them many friends in the nearby villages, as their methods are in conflict with the power structure of the Ettenheimer Winzergenossenschaft, the local cooperative that dominates the region.

Their winemaking style is also viewed with suspicion by locals who have spent much of the past few decades investing in modern winemaking technology. Enderle and Moll do little to their wines beyond foot-stomping the grapes and de-stemming some of the clusters. In 2013, there was no chaptalization. Most of the reds have a 2-3 week period of maceration/fermentation and then spend a year in used barrique they purchase from Domaine Dujac in Burgundy. However, their Pinot Noirs are not Burgundian in style. They are world class by merit of the fact that they are not trying to imitate but rather to carefully render the complexity and personality of old vines grown onBuntsandstein (colored sandstone) and Muschelkalk (limestone). If anything they are more reminiscent of the playfulness and finesse of American Pinot Noirs from Kenny Likitprakong or Joe Pedicini, though reflecting the cooler climate of Baden.

Betrand Celce of Wine Terroirs did a terrific feature on Enderle and Moll a few years ago and in March they received a lot of attention at the Wein Salon Natürel in Cologne, the alternative wine fair to ProWein. Their first vintage was in 2007, and most agree that the wines are just getting better. For those who haven’t tried them since they were first available a few years ago, they will certainly be impressed. The wines are as transparent as ever, clearly translating the under-appreciated terroir or Baden. Of course, this all means that the wines are in greater demand, so the quantities are limited.

Though they are still not well-known or celebrated in Germany, hopefully the success of Enderle and Moll elsewhere in Europe and in the US will motivate other German winemakers to take up the cause of restoring the old vines in Baden to make wines as unique and lovely as those of Sven and Florian. Jonathan Kemp

Enderle and Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir 'Basis'

• As the name implies, this is their entry-level wine, but it is hardly any less appealing for this distinction.There are two barrels that are combined to make the wine, one is from grapes that are foot-stomped, whole clusters, and the other barrel is 30% whole clusters. The wine has a blue, rosy hue. Savory, mushroom-y, and dark. Very clean, full of personality and charm. Good concentration that is bolstered by fresh acidity and an earthiness that provides some structure, finesse, and balance without being tannic. A distinctive Pinot Noir that manages to be expressive of the terroir of Baden, honest, and devoid of any flashiness or pretense or attempts to be Burgundy. It's also delicious.

Enderle and Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir 'Liaison'

•  This comes from 45 year-old vines on colored sandstone or Buntsandstein. It has a dustier, mineral feel that is elegant and detailed but still friendly and very approachable for drinking now. Subtle, complex, with blackberry, nutmeg, cinnamon, and a light dusting of tannin. Lots of nuance and freshness, it has lovely acidity and some pretty floral notes coming out on the finish.

Enderle and Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir Buntsandstein

• A step up in terms of structure and detail from the Liaison, which is also planted on Buntsandstein. There is definitely more energy and lift, though it manages to be lean and lovely, a step up in elegance instead of power and alcohol. A bit more chewiness and tannin but great balance overall. Really exceptional. Vines planted in 1954.

Enderle and Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir 'Ida'

•  Waxy, with violets and black cherry aromas. Lots of soft, pretty fruit, with a touch of orange peel and subtle, chewy texture. Understated and earthy. The Ida is from a small parcel of 40 year-old vines Sven and Florian recently purchased from an older woman named Ida, who was farming organically. It's not contiguous to the rest of their Buntsandstein parcels, and this is the first vintage, but it is the most feminine and ethereal of their lineup. Very drinkable now but will certainly develop with time in the bottle.

Enderle and Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir Muschelkalk

•  Planted in 1953 on Muschelkalk (limestone), these vines are the oldest in the village. Most of the older vines were more difficult to work and were sadly ripped out in the 1970s and 80s, but this luckily remains. There is a finer tannic structure here, with a lot of detail and layers. While retaining the elegant balance of the wines from colored sandstone, it is darker and more focused but also tighter. It will warrant some more time in bottle or a good decant, but it will be well worth the effort. 

Wild, Wonderful Steiermark

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

There are strange stirrings in the south of Austria, encouraging whispers and exciting wines from a small group of ecologically conscientious, hands-off winemakers who are redefining the region. Styria, or Steiermark in Austrian parlance, is a beautiful locale of rolling hills an hour south of Graz near the Slovenian border. It's been difficult to categorize its wines, especially with a recent surge and success in producing an internationally palatable style of Sauvignon Blanc that is hardly the most inspiring or thrilling of undertakings in the world of wine. However, some have ventured into natural winemaking with impressive results.

Brothers Andreas and Ewald Tscheppe, along with their sister Maria and brother-in-law Sepp Muster, all work with a similar approach: biodynamic farming and vinification for at least two years on the lees in neutral Slovenian oak barrels with barely-detectable levels of sulfites added, if any. All of them are passionately committed to this method, despite failing the sensory examinations for what is deemed to be 'typical' by local wine authorities. Thus, none of these bottles don the Austrian flag on their capsules. Despite the bureaucratic case against them, they are astounding and delicious natural wines, wildly expressive aromatically. They are devoid of the common flaws associated with this type of winemaking, such as mousey, off-flavors, volatile acidity, and reduction. The stability of the wines is undoubtedly a benefit of the extended time in barrel and in bottle before being released. Though they work with Sauvignon Blanc to make some truly compelling orange wines, they are also cultivating the more historically planted Welschriesling (not related to Riesling), Gelber Muskateller, and Weissburgunder (which actually was found to have been co-plantings of Pinot Blanc and Morillon, the local clone of Chardonnay).

Franz Strohmeier is another member of this natural Styrian winemaking group that calls themselvesSchmeke das Leben, which translates as 'Taste Life'. His version of the regional rosé frizzante asSchilcher is a sensational, refreshing treat – a must-try as temperatures start to climb. It's hardly typical Schilcher, but it is an example of the soulful purity that can be produced in Steiermark without heavy-handed manipulation or chemicals.

This offering is only a small glimpse into the full lineups from these Austrian iconoclasts, but it presents undeniable evidence that some of the best, most expressive natural wines in Europe are coming out of the verdant vistas of Steiermark. Jonathan Kemp

Muster, Sepp 2011 Steiermark Gelber Muskateller 'Vom Opok'

• Intensely bright and fragrant. Moss, flowers, prominent apricot, and enough of a hoppy character that it almost smells like an IPA. Lean, driving, and lots of acidity, finishing with a squeaky clean mineral texture. A remarkable, unique, profoundly expressive wine from Austria's Steiermark, an area largely dominated by modern, manipulated wines. Maria and Sepp Muster, however, are part of a small number of growers committed to working without chemicals and doing virtually nothing to their wines. This includes Maria's brothers Andreas Tscheppe and Ewald Tscheppe. Everything spends about 2 years in large (400-3,000L), old Slovenian barrels on the lees and is bottled unfiltered with barely measurable levels of sulfites. 

Muster, Sepp 2011 Steiermark Zweigelt

• Ripe, pure, vibrant Zweigelt. It manages to be concentrated without getting jammy -- instead, it's simply juicy, dark, and delicious, full of fruit that is herbaceous and piney. All this is complemented by tannins and good acidity. It's more textured than previous vintages and it will probably unwind a bit more as it ages in the bottle. But it is easy to approach now, and easily one of the most impressive, serious Zweigelts I've ever tasted, an expressive but structured, stable, natural wine. A perfect foil to lamb or steak. Two years in large, older Slovenian barrels, with barely any sulfur added and essentially undetectable amounts of free sulfur.

Strohmeier NV Steiermark Schilcher Frizzante

•  Schilcher is a common specialty in Western Styria made from a high acid red grape called Blauer Wildbacher. What is less common are the non-interventionist methods Franz Strohmeier uses to work the 3.5 hectares of 40 year old vines. Franz constantly seeks new ways to express terroir through natural wine making, such as allowing a portion of his grapes to grow wild with no pruning. The result is intensely flavored grapes that create sparkling wines with stunning depth and surprising finesse. This is a bold dry frizzante packed with fresh red berries, bracing acidity, and fine creamy bubbles. The local tradition is to pair sparkling rose with fried chicken, but you can also pair with salted, pan-fried oysters for a maritime twist on an Austrian favorite! Ingredients: 12 large fresh (live) oysters, shucked; 2 eggs, beaten; 1 cup bread crumbs; salt and pepper, to taste; 2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil; lemon wedges. Fry breaded oysters in a pan (cast-iron preferred) for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Amanda Bowman

Tscheppe, Andreas 2012 Steiermark Butterfly Yellow Muskateller

• This exceptional yellow muscat from Andreas Tscheppe is wildly gorgeous, transcendent, and heady. Lush, sensuous, bursting with chamomile, hops, lavender, and ripe nectarine, it is nevertheless quite vivid, bright, and dry. It even has some texture and spritz on the finish. Like all the wines made by Andreas and his brother Ewald of Weingut Werlitsch, this spends two years in large, neutral oak barrels, adding a significant amount of stability to these natural, hands-off wines. A stunning, incomparably expressive wine with balance and elegance.

Werlitsch 2009 Steireland Ex Vero 'Legoth'

•  Ewald Tscheppe of Weingut Werlitsch in Austria's Steiermark is known for farming biodynamically and creating masterful natural wines. This is a unique blend of 5 varieties vinified separately: Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling, Chardonnay, Sämling (aka Scheurebe), and Müller-Thurgau. Soft on the palate, with honeysuckle, almonds, and salt. For a broader, nuttier wine, there is a nice, racy backbone of acidity, making this wine extremely drinkable and versatile, not to mention pretty. After fermentation, it spends 2 years in large, older Slovenian barrels, giving it stability and some subtle, oxidative notes that make it perfect for fans of Jura whites.

Great Growths and Great Owls: Top Wines from Lauer and Weiser-Künstler

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

2013 in the Mosel was tricky, a vintage made difficult primarily from rain during the harvest, but if there is one takeaway from the story of the vintage, it's that results varied widely from grower to grower -- and it's possible that Florian Lauer made the best 2013ers of anyone in the region.

Lauer was successful largely because he began picking earlier than most, when the grapes were at 75 Oechsle (18-19 degrees Brix), which is low for recent years, but about Kabinett level for most of the Saar's history. Most growers waited for more ripeness and for the rains to stop -- but they never did, and with a lot of fruit already on the ground, many harvests lasted only a few days. Florian's early start, however, was crucial, and he was able to extend his harvest from the first week in October through the end of the month. Besides this great advantage, the bright acids of the vintage suit his style quite well. Constructed with a bit more meat on their bones, a citrusy lift adds a stunning amount of complexity and a three-dimensional quality across the lineup.

Weiser-Künstler's dry offerings by contrast, including their top Ellergrub GE (Grosse Eule or Great Owl, a play on the VDP's GG/Great Growth designation), are more raw, but fabulously so. Thrilling and expressive, they are as distinctive and pure as ever, vivid and with many years of life ahead of them. Though 2013 was difficult for most, the 80 to 110 year-old ungrafted vines like those of Gaispfad and Ellergrub are a huge asset, as is the focused, careful work of Alexandra Künstler and Konstantin Weiser that seems to improve with each vintage, regardless of the challenges. Jonathan Kemp

Lauer, Peter 2013 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Fass 6 'Senior'

• This year's 'Senior,' the cuvée based on the style preferred by Florian Lauer's grandfather, is in a magical place right now. When it arrived in September it was a little stern, but it has since blossomed into a wine that will thrill Riesling lovers of every style. With a sleek core of lemon, rock salt, and metal, it has pretty floral overtones and is left with a delicious amount of residual sugar, nothing extreme, but it is balanced perfectly with the higher acids of the vintage. This interplay between the generous, richer elements and the cleansing, bright structure provides an intoxicating tension and complexity to the wine. This is a fantastic bottle to have with sauteéd pork chops or fresh fish in richer sauces, especially those with mustard or brown butter. Stock up on this, it will not disappoint.

Lauer, Peter 2013 Saar Riesling Kupp GG

•  Dusty, confectionery, soft aromas. This is really pretty and open, easy, pleasant, and ethereal. Floral, subtle, a joy to imbibe.

Lauer, Peter 2013 Saar Riesling Fass 13 Saarfeilser GG

• A little more tightly-wound than the other GG's at this stage, but there's a lot of promise. Metal, citrus, stone, and a spicy palate with great detail. Zesty acids, salt, and a structure that is almost a little chunky, but this meaty foundation will loosen up a bit with time.

Lauer, Peter 2013 Saar Riesling Fass 11 'Schonfels' GG

• From one of the great sites in all of Germany, the Schoenfels is rife with ungrafted, 100 year-old vines on steep slate facing that plunges down to the Saar river. 2013 produced a wine with a lot of life and energy, all in a detailed, subtle package that is not showy, forceful, or harsh. Aromas of kiwi, meringue, thyme developing into rocks, menthol, and hops on the palate. It certainly has the bright acidity that reflects the vintage but it is integrated, lemon-y, and balanced with a soft viscosity. The acidity drives the finish, however, which is quite long and invigorating. This is approachable now and enjoyable, but will of course continue to improve. It is remarkably expressive, complex, mysterious, and deep and is a testament to the old vines and hard work of Lauer. Though still young, it already seems to fulfill the high expectation for greatness promised by the Grosses Gewächs designation.

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Mosel Enkircher Steffensberg Riesling

• From south-facing slopes and younger vines, this is edgy, focused, and impressive. Lots of texture to accompany the crispy acids and subtle, Granny Smith fruit. Powerful and expressive, but not missing the trademark purity and heady depth we've come to love from Weiser-Künstler. Will only continue to develop and improve.

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Mosel Trabener Gaispfad Riesling

• From ungrafted vines roughly 80 years-old on iron-rich gray slate. This takes the high acidity of the vintage and reins it into an remarkably focused structure that harnesses a wide range of detail and nuance. Subtle, pretty fruit, white peach, apricot, and minerals with understated textural elements on the finish.

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Ellergurb Riesling Trocken 'Grosse Eule'

• From 100-110 year-old ungrafted vines on blue and gray slate, the Ellergrub is the star of Weiser-Künstler's sites. Because of the natural force of this wine, they chose to use older barrique instead of fuder to help tame it a bit more. This is a powerful wine that verges on the severe but instead manages to be focused, intense, and deeply expressive. There is a lot happening here. A salty, mineral palate that is subtle, mysterious, and complex is framed with vivid, chiseled acids. Absolutely compelling. It will reward some time in bottle but is a bit of a thrill to encounter now.

A Whole Lot of 'Rot'

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

Over the past few months I’ve enjoyed assembling a small selection of Austrian and German rot weine (red wines) that are a little outside of the norm. By that, I really just mean that these producers make wines that aren't afraid to exhibit a little more idiosyncrasy, simply by eschewing the use of new oak or modern cellar techniques that often mask the personality and character of the distinct soil and climate in which the wines are made. For some growers this includes restoring and maintaining the health of their soils with organic and biodynamic farming. Some are also experimenting with little or no sulfur at bottling. Though it would be a stretch to say that there is a strong natural wine movement in Germany and Austria, there is no question that there is a small cadre of winemakers moving in that direction and in some cases making wines that are amongst the most expressive, successful natural wines I've tasted from any region.

So we are excited to have wines like Andi Knauss' Trollinger Without All, bravely going against the norm with his first vintage of a wine made without the additon of sulfur and clocking in at 10.6% alcohol. Or, for instance, the Spätburgunders from Hofgut Falkenstein, whose cellar is simply too cold for malolactic fermentation to occur, giving the wines a bright, high-toned energy that is unique and delicious, a true reflection of their origin in the chilly Saar. As a contrast, the Spätburgunder from Holger Koch in the warmer climate of Baden is riper and more lush. But thankfully, Holger, like Johannes Weber of Falkenstein, has a light touch in the cellar and his Spätburgunder is a treat, a glass of ridiculously pure refreshment. From Austria we have wines like Uwe Schiefer’s Blaufränkisches, where even a casual wine drinker can taste the palpable difference between the slate of the Eisenberg hill and the limestone of Königsberg.

All of these wines have the additional benefit of being universally approachable and affordable. There is a growing demand for red wines in Germany and Austria, and though this is hardly a complete list, this is a great place to start for the reds showing off terroir, old-fashioned cellar practices, natural winemaking, and, most importantly, hard work in the vineyards. Jonathan Kemp

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2011 Saar Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken

• There is just no comparison that we've found for the Spätburgunders of Falkenstein within Germany. The partial whole cluster pressing and partial carbonic maceration, combined with the fact that their cellar is too cold for malolactic fermentation to take place, makes these more like Loire Valley Pinot Noirs than anything else. This Spätburgunder, from the gray slate of their Sonnenberg vineyard shows more of the herbaceous character of the stem inclusion, but is still lithe, with dark fruit that reflects the warmer vintage with balanced acidity, lithe focus, and a touch of spice to balance out the darker, savory elements. A nice contrast to the brighter, leaner 2012 Spätburgunder from the Herrenberg vineyard. As with all their reds, the only sulfites added are to the empty barrels before the wine is racked. 

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2012 Saar Herrenberg Spätburgunder

• The last vintage of this wine was an unexpected sensation, and the 2012 is every bit as thrilling. Pinot Noir from the anachronistic Weber family of Falkenstein in the Saar, this is unlike any other German Spätburgunder, since it does not go through malolactic fermentation and retains its fresh, energetic cut. The wine is pressed whole cluster and ends up going through partial carbonic maceration and is only raised in the Weber's large, old fuders, with zero sulfur added at bottling. This wine from the grey, blue, and red slate of Herrenberg is astoundingly silky and more transparent, with perfect balance of bright cherry fruit, subtle earth, and unmistakable Saar vibrancy. This will shock people who have preconceived notions of what German reds can be, as this is more akin to wines from Jura and Beaujolais than anything else. A must-try! 

Knauss 2013 Württemberg Trollinger 1 Liter

• Trollinger is known as Schiava in Italy. The light, refreshing Swabian version done here by Andi Knauss is similarly not a tannic wine, but it has an irresistible verve and energy not unlike Poulsard that sets it apart from its Italian cousins. This vintage is the best we've tasted yet, with remarkable purity, pleasing, high-toned cherry fruit, and cleansing acidity. Thank goodness this is a 1-liter bottle. It always gets guzzled. 

Knauss 2013 Württemberg Trollinger Without All

•  From Andi Knauss' 3 favorite plots, 'Without All' is Trollinger that comes in at an ethereal, pure 10.6% abv. Fermented spontaneously with native yeasts and bottled with no fining, filtration, and zero added sulphur. To further emphasize the point, it is lacking even a front label on the bottle. The light, fresh style is accompanied by fruit with a darker, brambly raspberry and blackberry character and some pleasantly chewy, cleansing tannins. Despite the lack of sulfites, there have been no issues with bottle variation or mousiness, and since we received our first shipment in July, the wine has kept getting better every time we've opened a bottle. Pleasing and thoughtfully made natural wine that will absolutely change your mind about red wine from Germany.

Koch, Holger 2012 Baden Kaiserstuhl Spätburgunder

•  Holger Koch makes both Pinot Noir and Spätburgunder, and while they are ostensibly the same, the Spätburgunder is made from a parcel of 60-70 year-old vines planted by his father. Koch does not chaptalize, though it is both legal and common in Baden, and so he relies upon his stellar vineyard work and grape selection to produce this soulful, deeply satisfying Spätburgunder. It is subtle, pretty, dark, and there is ripeness to the fruit but it somehow floats cloud-like on the palate, soothing and cool. After a bottle of this wine at dinner one night, for several weeks I was slightly disappointed with every other red I would open, as I wanted them all to have this much purity and finesse.

Muster, Sepp 2010 Steiermark Zweigelt

• Sepp Muster is making some of the most drinkable, exciting Zweigelts in Austria, with biodynamic farming, natural winemaking, and barely measurable levels of sulfur. Unashamedly ripe and red-fruited, but complemented with hints of walnut, sandalwood, and black pepper. A great wine for meats like lamb, where the structure will stand up to the protein and earth and you can enjoy the friendly, warm fruit that is forgivingly moderate in alcohol, and absolutely absent of any spoof.

Schiefer, Uwe 2012 Südburgenland Blaufränkisch "E" Eisenberg

•  From a young age, Uwe Schiefer dreamed of exploiting the potential of Blaufränkisch on the Eisenberg's unique slate. And in his hands we can see what he was thinking. This is a lush, fragrant Blaufränkisch of crushed violet, roses, and red plum. Pure, ripe black cherry fruit on the palate is coupled with an elegant, mineral structure and an even tannic structure. There is a polish and balance that speaks of careful selection and thoughtful, but not over-manipulative, vinification (i.e. new oak or over-extraction). Schiefer works without chemicals in the vineyard and uses partial stem inclusion, native yeasts, and neutral barrels of various size. This is a wine of unmistakable terroir, finesse, and age-ability, and the mix of ripeness, moderate alcohol and good structure is reminiscent of cru Beaujolais and Mencia, though with its own charm and personality.

Schiefer, Uwe 2012 Südburgenland Blaufränkisch "K" Konigsberg

• Just a few kilometers from the Eisenberg, Konigsberg is all limestone instead of slate. While it speaks with the same elegance and grace of his Eisenberg Blaufräkisch, this is more subtle and lean. Softer aromas, lovely and coy. With less fruit, the tannins and earth are more noticeable, but there is a deep sense of purity and balance with acidity that likely indicates a long lifespan. The serious, subtle construction of this wine makes it a wonderful ambassador for the potential of Blaufränkisch to not only age but clearly translate the nuance and detail of terroir.

Wachter-Wiesler 2013 Südburgenland Blaufränkisch

• This is a great introduction to Blaufränkisch. Many people have experienced inexpensive Austrian Zweigelts, which are more red-fruited and juicy, but Blaufränkisch is often far more elegant and food-friendly. This basic bottling from Christoph Wachter-Wiesler shows off a remarkable amount of complexity for the price, with blueberry and tart raspberry that is matched with texture, acidity, and focus. Approachable, versatile, and very refreshing with a range of food. 

Wachter-Wiesler 2011 Südburgenland Eisenberg Blaufränkisch Ried Weinberg

• Plush blueberry and cherry complemented by a dark, chewy structure that is the result of 15% whole clusters and 18 months in 500-1000L neutral barrel. From a 5-hectare parcel on the Eisenberg, this is serious Blaufränkisch that will continue to develop and improve in the bottle. Focused, stony, and a little tight right now but still excellent. Drink now with some air beforehand, or enjoy over the next 10 years.

Falkenstein: The Tangy Soul Of The Saar

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

‘Make wines low in alcohol with lovely aromas.’ A tenet of the legendary Jules Chauvet of Beaujolais, rarely is this phrase associated with German winemaking. Yet the wines of Hofgut Falkenstein in the Saar valley fulfill this as well as any producer in Germany, let alone France. This is an anachronistic estate. Though the history of Falkenstein wine only goes back to 1985, when Erich Weber moved his family to the Falkensteiner Hof, then a run-down manor house in Niedermennig that he spent years restoring, in many ways their dry, tangy tonics are a throwback to the 19th century, with all the work being done by hand and almost no intervention in the cellar. A surprisingly small amount of sulfur is used. Their nearly ancient fuder are treated with sulfur a few days before the new, gently-pressed wine is racked into them via gravity and a touch more is used before bottling the whites. Overall, we’re talking about 20-30 mg/l of total sulfur, low by even strict standards (the Association of Vins Naturels qualifies natural white wines as below 40 mg/l and Demeter’s upper limit is 70 mg/l), and certainly not the norm in the Mosel. The reds often don’t receive any additional sulfur.

In addition to the old-school approach, they aim to make affordable wines that ‘go down easy,’ in the words of Johannes Weber, the energetic 27 year-old who is steadily taking over the winemaking duties from his father.  Indeed, the wines do go down easy but that belies their complexity and delicate construction, not to mention the way they very clearly express the nuance of their respective terroirs. In the valley of the Saar there is less protection from brisk, western winds, giving the wines grown in the vineyards around this Mosel tributary a characteristic core of cool acidity, which the Falkenstein lineup demonstrates with aplomb.  They are a pure jolt of Saar zip, from the cooler, later-ripening Sonnenberg site in Niedermennig to the warmer south-facing Euchariusberg plots near Krettnach where they produce ethereal Auslesen that still has the charming, cool backbone of acidity that is their trademark.

Of course, they also go down easy because they are low in alcohol and the tangy spritz is a terrific digestive aid with food. Combined with the aforementioned lack of winemaking additives, they feel downright healthy to drink. According to Lars Carlberg, doctors in the 19th century used to prescribe light, dry Mosel wines for ‘a variety of ailments.’ Given that the Webers make wines in large part the same way they would have been made 125 years ago, it may be worth filling those latter-day physicians’ prescriptions with some Falkenstein Riesling to see if their advice holds true. I know drinking a bottle always makes me feel pretty great. Jonathan Kemp

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2013 Saar Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken

• This is the more approachable of the dry Rieslings from Falkenstein. There is more structure and extract, with aromas of apricot, seagrass, and fresh flowers. Mouth-watering, mineral, brisk, and tangy, with a little texture on the finish, this is wonderfully pure, drinkable, refreshment.

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2013 Saar Krettnacher Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken

• This vineyard is typically a week behind the Niedermenning Sonnenberg vineyard in terms of ripeness, and produces a supremely mineral wine. If you were to picture an electric current running through gray slate it might give you an image of what this wine expresses. This is dry, salty, stony Saar Riesling with enough acidity to snap you out of a deep slumber. That it still comes off as rejuvenating instead of a show of power or unpleasant force is a testament to the work done at Falkenstein and the finesse that their wines possess. This is a wine of undeniable terroir but also with the digestive properties that call to mind 19th Century doctors' prescription of light, dry Mosel wines for a range of conditions. It'll cure what ails you! 

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2013 Saar Riesling Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherb

• Always the best-selling wine in the Falkenstein lineup, and the one with the widest appeal. This comes from the deep-rooted Herrenberg vineyard, mostly gray slate with a few patches of red and blue slate. The wine has just barely enough sugar to take the edge off the tangy structure, but enough to add quite a bit of charm. Still lean, precise, clean, and mineral, but with a gorgeous finesse and energy that is undeniable. A true star of the Saar.

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2013 Saar Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Auslese

• Up in the clouds, hidden from the western winds, steep, and perfectly south-facing, the Euchariusberg vineyard produces higher sugar levels but the grapes always retain their acidity. The Auslesen from here are very old-school, with an ethereal drinkable quality and little of the thick, dense, sweeter qualities many associate with the term Auslese. Instead it has a leaner profile but remarkable overall balance and poise that speaks with a clear, gentle voice that is soft and massaging on the palate. Aromas of herbs and forest floor add complexity. The selection and sorting must be excellent to produce this level of purity, where the sugars are perceptible but the layers of acid and minerals stay even through the finish, with little evidence of botrytis to be found. To say this is a fantastic value is a severe understatement, but this is Auslese one could easily drink on a daily basis, so take advantage of the price and drink up. 

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2011 Saar Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken

• There is just no comparison that we've found for the Spätburgunders of Falkenstein within Germany. The partial whole cluster pressing and partial carbonic maceration, combined with the fact that their cellar is too cold for malolactic fermentation to take place, makes these more like Loire Valley Pinot Noirs than anything else. This Spätburgunder, from the gray slate of their Sonnenberg vineyard shows more of the herbaceous character of the stem inclusion, but is still lithe, with dark fruit that reflects the warmer vintage with balanced acidity, focus, and a touch of spice to balance out the darker, savory elements. A nice contrast to the brighter, leaner 2012 Spätburgunder from the Herrenberg vineyard. As with all their reds, the only sulfites added are to the empty barrels before the wine is racked.

Falkenstein, Hofgut 2012 Saar Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken

• The last vintage of this wine was an unexpected sensation, and the 2012 is every bit as thrilling. Pinot Noir from the anachronistic Weber family of Falkenstein in the Saar, this is unlike any other German Spätburgunder, since it does not go through malolactic fermentation and retains its fresh, energetic cut. The wine is pressed whole cluster and ends up going through partial carbonic maceration and is only raised in the Weber's large, old fuders, with zero sulfur added at bottling. This wine from the grey, blue, and red slate of Herrenberg is astoundingly silky and more transparent, with perfect balance of bright cherry fruit, subtle earth, and unmistakable Saar vibrancy. This will shock people who have preconceived notions of what German reds can be, as this is more akin to wines from Jura and Beaujolais than anything else. A must-try!

The Swabian Edge - Many Stones But Little Bread

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

Swabia – the southwest corner of Germany – is the birthplace of Schiller and Hegel as well as inventors and industrialists like Gottlieb Daimler and Robert Bosch. There is an old phrase that reflects the somewhat grim natural conditions there: ‘Viel Steine gibts und wenig Brot’ (We have many stones and little bread). The struggle to overcome the region’s historically scarce resources have given Swabians a reputation for strict frugality, as well as creative problem solving and innovation. Of course, the proverbial abundance of stones is of great benefit to their wines, with the best Rieslings showing off a clean, chalky structure gained from the steep, limestone slopes. Here, in a warmer pocket not far from Alsace, there are colder winters but warmer summers than the rest of Germany. The wines almost always ferment dry of their own accord, and on the occasions where there is a bit of residual sugar, the acidity is still poised and racy, another great benefit of the limestone. Though despite having the potential for greatness, few Swabians have aimed terribly high until recently.

Andi Knauss, Jochen Beurer, and Holger Koch are the first in what we hope is a growing movement of ambitious Swabian winemakers. Independently of one another, they began working without the use of chemicals in the vineyards and using only native yeasts in the cellars, with almost no other additions save for small amounts of sulfites. Knauss has even begun working without sulfites for his Trollinger 'Without All.' Beurer is certified biodynamic by Demeter. Knauss and Koch practice organic viticulture.

Beurer’s Rieslings are shockingly pure and so easy to drink that they can be real eye-openers for people who are used to sweet Mosel Rieslings, and even for those who have been drinking dry German Rieslings for a while. The wines are complex and very structured, going through a long, reductive winemaking process on their lees in neutral barrels, and yet they are still graceful, not showing off power and force, instead being superbly versatile food wines.

On the border with France, just 30km from Colmar, Holger Koch specializes in Pinot Noir and Spätburgunder grown on limestone and volcanic soils. Though they are essentially the same grape, the vines he labels Pinot Noir are selection massale plantings from Alsace and Burgundy, while his Spätburgunder vines were those planted by his father 60-70 years ago. His reds are unlike most German red wines, and are free of heavy new oak influence that would sacrifice freshness and purity. It's common practice to chaptalize Swabian red wines (the addition of sugar to fermenting grapes, also permitted in Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne). Koch nevertheless has a remarkable ability to make lush but subtle wines without chaptalizing, and it requires no small amount of effort to pick and select with such scrutiny.

Andi Knauss similarly has a gift for triage and selection. His ‘Without All’ Trollinger is not chaptalized and is further made without fining, filtration, or the addition of sulfites. The first vintage of this bottling, the current release, is a very clean wine without the bottle variation or mousey quality a lot of wines made without sulfites can possess, especially for those just starting to make wines in this method. So Knauss’ first effort is quite extraordinary, and speaks to the intense work he did to use only the best, cleanest, most pristine grapes for this wine.

We are thrilled to have been slowly seduced by the wines of Swabia over the past year or so, as they are all immensely approachable and manage to easily translate the best qualities of their historically austere homeland. Thank goodness for all those stones. 

Beurer, Jochen 2013 Württemberg Riesling Trocken

For under $20, this wine has a lot going for it. Farmed biodynamically, it is clean, pure Riesling with poise, balance, and acidity from it's limestone origins that gives it a refreshing energy and brightness that feels downright healthy to drink. For a bone-dry Riesling it never crosses the line into shrill, enamel-peeling acidity or brooding displays of power. The fruit would appear to be of terrific quality and I've seen a wide-range of wine drinkers charmed by this wine's lithe, crisp, versatile elegance. 

Beurer, Jochen 2012 Württemberg Riesling Schilfsandstein

The Jurrasic limestone and sandstone of this prime, terraced Swabian parcel imbue this dry Riesling with dark nuance and detail, all the while retaining terrific acidity that provides backbone and lift. After going through a long elevage on its lees in neutral barrels, there is a little bit of reduction but it quickly goes away to reveal tangerine peel, lemon, apricot, chamomile, salt, and minerals. Almost built like a Muscadet, with the same subtle intensity, versatility and range. There is a coiled power in the guts of this wine that will soften over the years but it is nevertheless ready to drink now in all its delicious complexity. Its purity and transparency truly show the distinct influence of the Swabian terroir and Swabia's immense potential--at least when farmed with the care of someone like Jochen Beurer. Jonathan Kemp

Koch, Holger 2010 Baden Pinot Noir*

One-star is Holger's equivalent of Premier Cru, and these vines are from a massale-planted parcel of 10-15 year-old vines farmed without chemicals on a mix of volcanic and limestone soils. Fermented with partial stem-inclusion and raised in a mix of 2-3 year old Stockinger barriques, demi-muids, and fuders, the oak use is light-handed and integrated with the warm, lush fruit. Tart acid and detailed layers belie a serious nature to the wine despite it's ease and effortless grace. Though many red wines in Baden are chaptalized, Koch does not take advantage of this and instead works harder than his peers to achieve proper balance and ripeness through carefully selecting for the best grapes. He also manages to use a light touch in the cellar to keep this exceptional fruit in the foreground. The worst qualities of German red wines may be found among those that aspire to be Burgundy but only succeed in being torpid, over-oaked, and expensive. This, by contrast, is subtle, true to its origins and truly world-class. 

Knauss 2013 Württemberg Trollinger 1 Liter

Trollinger is known as Schiava or Vernaccia Rosso in Italy. The light, refreshing Swabian version done here by Andi Knauss is similarly not a tannic wine, but it has an irresistible verve and energy not unlike Poulsard that sets it apart from its Italian cousins. This vintage is the best we've tasted yet, with remarkable purity, pleasing, high-toned cherry fruit, and cleansing acidity. Thank goodness this is a 1-liter bottle. It always gets guzzled. 

Knauss 2013 Württemberg Trollinger Without All

From Andi Knauss' 3 favorite plots, 'Without All' is Trollinger that comes in at an ethereal, pure 10.6% abv. Fermented spontaneously with native yeasts and bottled with no fining, filtration, and zero added sulphur. To further emphasize the point, it is lacking even a front label on the bottle. The light, fresh style is accompanied by fruit with a darker, brambly raspberry and blackberry character and some pleasantly chewy, cleansing tannins. Despite the lack of sulfites, there have been no issues with bottle variation or mousiness, and since we received our first shipment in July, the wine has kept getting better every time we've opened a bottle. Pleasing and thoughtfully made natural wine that will absolutely change your mind about red wine from Germany.

Knauss 2012 Württemberg Riesling Sekt Zero

This dry, zero-dosage Sekt is sourced from twelve plots of Knauss' Riesling vines of 15-30 years-old grown on a thin, clay topsoil that barely covers the underlying limestone. And the limestone, of course, is what really comes through: like a 18-wheeler barreling down the highway, in fact. Delicious aromas of fresh apricots and nectarines, a zippy, limey, backbone, and an underlying body with chalky texture adds depth, length, and quite a bit of soul. Vibrant, refreshing, and wonderful. 

Get On The Trolley - New Austrian Arrivals

JONATHAN KEMP

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

The city limits of a major European city are not the usual haunts for winemakers, but the northwest corner of Vienna is a notable exception. It was here that the ancient Pannonian Sea halted, leaving a wide assortment of mineral and fossil deposits on sites like the Nussberg hill, which starts at the Danube and climbs to 1,000 feet. Though the wine culture of Vienna has been a significant part of the city since the Romans, winemakers like Jutta Ambrositsch and Rainer Christ are helping to turn the world's attention to the ancient tradition of the field blends that are unique to Vienna, helping to reinvigorate and preserve the vineyards of the city, which now occupy highly desirable real estate. Ambrositsch left a job as a graphic designer at age 28, and since 2003 all of her farming has been done according to organic and biodynamic principles, with fermentations occurring spontaneously and no other intervention in the cellar save for minimal sulfur at bottling. She makes tiny quanities, maybe 500 cases total, mostly from parcels on the Nussberg, and demand for her wines has been steadily increasing. Rainer Christ, a 5th-generation Viennese winemaker, farms organically on the Bisamberg hill, across the Danube and to the northeast of the Nussberg. His basic Gemischter Satz is a perfect introduction to this revitalized facet of Vienna's historic cultural identity.

An hour's drive upriver from Vienna, the Wachau is home to Nikolaihof, an estate dating to 470 A.D. that has never used chemicals, and has practiced biodynamics since 1971. Their wines can be inscrutable in their youth, only to blossom magically years later. Such is the case with their 2006 Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein. Not a particularly heralded vintage and not one of their top bottlings, this is nevertheless having a moment right now after being kept in 2,000L cask until being bottled last year. On the other hand, their recently released 2013 Hefeabzug Grüner Veltliner is in spectacular shape right out of the gate.

In neighboring Kamptal, Alwin Jurtschitsch and Stefanie Hasselbach recently took over Alwin’s family’s centuries-old estate, converting to organic viticulture while reducing their holdings to a size more manageable by hand. The work shows in their focused, precise wines. Just minutes from Jurstschitsch, also in the town of Langenlois, is Weingut Weszeli, a partnership between Rupert Summerer and Davis Weszeli that focuses on single-vineyard Kamptal Grüner Veltliner and Riesling grown organically and made without manipulation. Theirs are rich, heady, but keenly balanced wines.

In the south of Austria near Hungary, despite an abundance of modern winemaking and fruity, reductive reds, Uwe Schiefer and Christoph Wachter are among a small but increasing number who are now raising the bar for Austrian red wines. Both produce serious Blaufränkisch from the iron, slate, and schist-laden soils of Südburgenland’s Eisenberg, farming organically and fermenting the wines with traditional methods including some whole clusters and using large, neutral oak barrels.

Efforts to minimize chemicals in the vineyards and craft wines that passionately express their unique origins are always welcome, so we’re excited to offer this collection of new vintages from old favorites and new entries from an inspiring group of up-and-coming Austrians. 

Christ 2013 Wien Gemischter Satz

A deeply delicious, satiating field blend from Vienna that includes Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Gelber Muskateller, and Sauvignon Blanc. From younger vines grown on the Bisamberg and done entirely in steel tank. Minimal use of sulphur. Rich, giving, plush, and delightfully fresh. Hints of peach nectar, pineapple, and plenty of acidity to provide balance to the touch of remaining sugar (just 8-10 g/l). A must-try with spicy Asian food, vegetable gratins, or simply on its own in the park. 

Ambrositsch, Jutta 2013 Wien Ein Liter

Very pure, bracing, and direct, with a spectacular dose of minerals. Refreshing, with stone fruit flesh and lime. A very pretty and thrilling field blend (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, and more) in a liter bottle! Crisper and more focused than the 2012 bottling. Jutta Ambrositsch has been at the forefront of the natural wine movement and revitalizing the historic vineyards inside Vienna's city limits, especially those of the Nussberg. Highly recommended.

Ambrositsch, Jutta 2013 Wien Gemischter Satz Glockenturm

Teeming with a freshness that is deeply soulful, and remunerative. Fermentation stopped with some residual sugar, but this only adds to the wild, thirst-quenching powers of the wine and reinforces the feeling of warm, healing sunshine. A field blend from a small parcel in the 19th District near Grinzing planted in 1972 that includes Grüner Veltliner, Neuberger, and the rare Grüner Sylvaner with some more recent plantings of Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings by Jutta. 

Jurtschitsch 2013 Kamptal Grüner Veltliner Stein

One of the oldest cellars and wineries in the Kamptal, Alwin Jurtschitsch and Stefanie Hasselbach took over the family estate and have scaled back their holdings, planted fruit trees and garlic between rows, and converted to organic and biodynamic practices. The Stein Grüner Veltliner is from the Loisenberg and Steinmassl vineyards and shows off a remarkably focused style with excellent acidity and terrific dose of salty, mineral elements. This is a young winemaking couple to keep an eye on. 

Weszeli 2012 Kamptal Loiserberg Riesling

Very pretty tension between the acid and fruit. Ripe, fleshy, and giving, with a touch of residual sugar but terrific overall balance. Finishes dry with a delicious salinity. An immensely giving, versatile Kamptal Riesling. 

Nikolaihof 2006 Wachau Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel

This remained on fine lees in 2,000L cask until being bottled in 2013. All from clean fruit with no botrytis, this is an absolute breath of fresh air. Lovely, alluring, and soft, teeming with chamomile and mountain flowers. Some texture on the finish. Exceptionally beautiful. 

Nikolaihof 2013 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug

Always an affordable treat from an historic estate, this basic Grüner aged on the lees is simply transcendent in 2013. Heady, soft, fresh aromas of mountain meadow and autumn leaves. The lees add some body to crisp but moderate acid, reminiscent of ripe apples. Strikingly pure, ethereal. 

Wachter-Wiesler 2011 Südburgenland Eisenberg Blaufränkisch Ried Weinberg

Plush blueberry and cherry complemented by a dark, chewy structure that is the result of 15% whole clusters and 18 months in 500-1000L neutral barrel. From a 5-hectare parcel on the Eisenberg, this is serious Blaufränkisch that will continue to develop and improve in the bottle. Focused, stony, and a little tight right now but still excellent. Drink now with some air beforehand, or enjoy over the next 10 years.

The Weiser-Künstler Experience: 2013ers build on their increasing mystique

JONATHAN KEMP

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

“We leave them up there to scream, to get over their fears. I instruct them to focus on what’s in front of them, one vine at a time. Then when they finish, they can look down.” So terrifying are the heights of the Ellergrub vineyard near Enkirch that this is the method Alexandra Künstler employs with acrophobic harvest workers perched precariously above the Mosel.

However, this same feature, steep terraces with 15-foot walls in some sections, helps maximize sunlight exposure. Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler also lay claim to a high percentage of old, ungrafted vines in each of their sites. Trabener Gaispfad is primarily old, ungrafted vines, and in Ellergrub some are 100 years-old. These assets are of immense value, especially in a vintage like 2013. The effects of erratic temperatures throughout a growing season that ended with a deflating, wet October were mitigated by the old vines’ more even, balanced rate of development and their resistance to pests and disease. This resiliency further enables Konstantin and Alexandra to practice organic viticulture, as the vines can largely be left to their own defenses.

So while yields were quite devastatingly low in 2013, the pedigree of Weiser-Künstler’s sites and vines were crucial to the resulting wines. As in preceding vintages, the endearing quality of W-K’s offerings is in the delicate, nervy balance that accompanies the respective sweetness of each bottling. The tension and acidity are more noticeable in the 2013ers, but the aromatic depth and complexity from the old vines are hardly diminished, and in many ways the wines are more thrilling given the circumstances.

The magic of Weiser-Künstler is not in their broad appeal but rather in their vulnerable honesty and distinctive energy that always feels very personal. I’ve always felt a connection and empathy for their style. It’s not easily explained and is certainly one of those intangibles that I and other devotees of their wines relish with indulgent satisfaction. For the initiated, the 2013ers are another lineup of unique wines that continue this experience. For those not familiar with the wines, membership to the Weiser-Künstler fan club is only a few bottles away.

As always, check Chambers Street Wines for each wine and their availability.

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Mosel Riesling Feinherb

Playful, quirky, angular, lean, and rejuvenating—the core of Weiser-Künstler's style is represented here in all its glory. A very enjoyable, endearing wine with lovely cut, tension, and heady aromatics of dried flowers. Just a touch off-dry, but with a lot of structure. 

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Mosel Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett

Gorgeous and eye-opening for a wine with just 7% alcohol. The sugars, which present themselves like those in a tart Braeburn apple, are very much in the background and balanced by a healthy dose of acidity and lots of texture on the finish. Intensely fragrant and heady with chamomile, wet fall leaves, salinity and stone. Goes down easy and disappears in moments. 

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Mosel Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese

High-toned, shimmering, and deftly balanced with pristine sugars. Refreshing and racy, with about 55 g/l of RS. This is the richest, densest wine in the 2013 lineup, but still has all the purity and transparency found in the other offerings. 

Weiser-Künstler 2013 Mosel Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Auslese

Sensational and pure. An ethereal, light wine that deeply betrays any notions about what a 7% abv Auslese tastes like. Softly sweet, but like a juicy apple, with enough tartness and acid to keep the wine fresh and lean. Finishes with texture, minerals, and salt. 

2012: Clemens Busch's Crossover Hit

JONATHAN KEMP

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

Clemens Busch is in many ways the conscience of the Mosel. He stopped using chemical pesticides, fungicides, and fertilizers in the mid-1980s and began incorporating biodynamic practices in 2005. Those choices placed him at the forefront, if not making him the leader, of the growing cadre of Mosel winemakers moving towards more natural, ecological methods. Besides this noble distinction, he makes wines that mirror his personality, with a persistent sense of calm set against a mysterious, seeking, haunting nature that resounds with brilliant echoes of slate-ridden vineyards at nerve-racking heights. They are among the most intellectually engaging wines found anywhere. His experience and ability to keenly adjust for each season’s unique weather and complications make every vintage of his worth trying. He made brooding, wooly wines in 2011 that will continue to improve over the next decade. In 2012, conditions were far more fragile and Clemens shortened the harvest to about 3 weeks—half the length of the 2011 harvest. Despite the lower yields, we began hearing good things through the proverbial grapevine. In January of 2014, our own David Lillie was able to sample the wines first, and the news around the vintage began to escalate towards hushed, anticipatory buzz. The wines arrived, and the hype was deserved. They are stupendous.

The essential expression of slate is remains and the cerebral soul still forms the core of these wines as in years past. However, the 2012ers absolutely shimmer against this darker foundation. They are quite bright, and yet acids are in delicate proportion, allowing for nuance and beauty to come through. Since the wines impressed even the scrutinizing palates of those perennially inclined to praise subtle Muscadet over Mosel, perhaps this vintage is a ‘crossover hit’ for Clemens, as it were. It’s safe to say that not just the German wine geeks will be trying to get their hands on this mix.

As always, check Chambers Street Wines for availability.

Long-Awaited 2012ers From Immich-Batterieberg and Knebel

by JONATHAN KEMP

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

Back in early April we offered these wines on pre-arrival. They are here and they are deserving of all, if not more, of our original enthusiasm. Overall, the wines have a magical grace and poise, an ethereal and delicate brightness that allows the terroir to come through with considerable clarity. However, harvests were not robust—at Immich-Batterieberg they were down by half compared to 2011—so we are making sure those of you who have not already purchased some get a fair warning before they are gone.

Gernot Kollmann began making wines without intervention while working at Van Volxem from 2000-2003 and took this approach to Weingut Knebel from 2004-2008, where he had an eager pupil in Matthias Knebel. Fermentations are spontaneous, crus are vinified separately, only old oak barrels are used, and sugar levels are determined naturally, depending on when fermentation comes to a stop. There is no use of chemicals in the cellar, no chaptalization, no acidification or de-acidification. Sulphur is kept to a minimum, and used only at bottling. Matthias Knebel’s embrace of Gernot’s instruction has resulted in a steadily growing appreciation for the Knebel estate, and his 2012ers are heady, transcendent, soulful, and unflinchingly pleasurable, taking Knebel's rising star to a new high.

At Immich-Batterieberg Gernot has been busy revitalizing an estate with a history dating back to A.D. 911 and a cellar to 870. 80% of the vines are ungrafted, and there are four different sites with distinct types of slate in each. Recent history was decidedly destructive to the winemaking traditions, favoring a more modern, but also lazier approach that threw all the grapes from separate crus together and inoculated with commercial yeasts to create fruity, reductive wines that eventually left the estate bankrupt and without customers. Kollmann is turning back the clock, once again expressing the remarkable vineyards through the wines. Sugar levels are generally low and the wines all finish fairly dry though each bottling is distinct. For instance in 2012 the basic C.A.I. bottling ended up with 14 grams/liter of residual sugar, the Escheburg with 5 grams/liter, and the single vineyard Zeppwingert with 17 grams. The differences are only natural, as they represent the nuance and subtlety of their respective sources. Despite differences in terroir—sunlight exposure, drainage, acidity, and must weight—all the wines share the same lively tension and sleek balance. They are astoundingly delicious and beautiful wines.

As 2013 will be an even smaller vintage than 2012, you are duly encouraged to grab these now.

Check Chambers Street Wines for availability.

Ferdinand's Last Stand

More Unearthed Treasure From The Mosel

by JONATHAN KEMP

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

It is always a treat to drink the results of the pure, lithe bounty of 2001 in the Mosel. As they age, the structure and crackle that marks the vintage helps the wines to continue to improve remarkably. We have come across two 2001ers from the now defunct Weingut Ferdinand Krebs that represent something more than just good wine from a good vintage: Mr. Krebs’ declining health in 2001 and 2002 sadly prevented him from getting these wines to market despite their superb quality, and — incredibly — they remained in his cellar until December 2013. We were lucky enough to taste them in early March, just a few months after they emerged from the cellar of his recently purchased winery.

Ferdinand Krebs retired in 2004 after over 50 years of making wine in Neumagen-Dhron, one of Germany's oldest winemaking nerve centers. 2,000 years ago the Romans built an outpost here called Noviomagus Treverorum in order to protect shipping at the midpoint between Trier and Koblenz. Evidence of the wine trade’s long-running presence is famously marked by the Neumagener Weinschiff. Adorning the tomb of a wine merchant buried there circa 275 A.D., theWeinschiff is a fantastic stone sculpture of a Roman wine ship that carried barrels down the Mosel.

The vineyard these wines come from from, Neumagener Rosengärtchen, shares the the same slope as nearby Dhroner Hofberg, where A.J. Adam is but one of few who, like Krebs before him, works gray-blue slate soils at very difficult, steep pitches and high altitudes. Since the retirement of Mr. Krebs and his peers, many growers have instead favored easier sites but lesser returns in the depth of the wines. Thus it is all the more meaningful to have these last vestiges of the previous generation left to us by a winemaker with half a century’s experience in the form of his last, great vintage. 

Check Chambers Street Wines for availability.

Emerging From the Shadows of Bordeaux

Ancient, Tenacious Reds of South-West France

by JONATHAN KEMP

Article written for Chambers Street Wines, view it here

The South-west of France was once the supplier of wines to Roman Emperors, the Gauls having planted vines as early as 600 B.C. by some accounts. These days, ancient sites and expressive, elegant wines fit for the ruling classes are selling at decidedly plebeian prices. Centuries past have unified this large area of otherwise unrelated towns, terroirs, and grape varieties in their common oppression by powerful interests in Bordeaux. The current revitalization of the South-west is being led by the growers who have staked their reputations on cultivating the indigenous grapes uniquely suited to their respective landscapes.

Braucol (Fer Servadou) is grown in Gaillac’s Tarn River Valley, where during the 1960s and 70s many vines were being replaced with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to follow perceived market demand. Robert Plageoles meanwhile began pushing back against this trend, researching and tracking down quickly disappearing plantings, among them Duras, Braucol, Mauzac, Ondenc, and the extremely rare Prunelart. Today Robert's (literally) groundbreaking work in replanting those rare vines is carried on by son Bernard and his wife Myriam. They farm organically and make ripe, pleasurable, natural wines from their rescued plantings.

Not far away from Domaine Plageoles, also north of the Tarn, is Scottish ex-pat Alan Geddes and his Parisienne wife Laurence of Domaine Mayragues, who spent 15 years restoring a 14th century chateau on a site evidently used to make wines in Roman times. Since 1999 they have farmed biodynamically, producing reds from Braucol, Duras, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon that are remarkably elegant wines given the hotter climate, perfumed and lightly tannic.

Fronton, between the Tarn and the Garonne north of Toulouse, is known for nearly exclusive cultivation of Negrette , the 'black grape,' going back to the 12th century. Grown on the poor, sandy soils sloping down to the Tarn, Diane and Phillipe Cauvin of Chateau la Colombiere grow their Negrette following biodynamic principles on a mix of siliceous and sandy soils, blending it with Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon for their Reserve bottling. These are easy, juicy, ripe wines but have complex aromatics and plenty of lift. They are also quite inexpensive.

The ‘black wine,’ however, is the purview of Cahors, where Cot (Malbec) thrives along with Tannat, on red soils with limestone rocks deposited by the Lot River. On a plateau on the edge of the appellation Gilles Bley of Clos Siguier makes a refreshingly bright, lively, and focused version of the 'black wine,' working organically and with native yeasts, low, if any, sulfur, and only small percentages of oak barrels - most of them in use for nearly a decade.

All of these wines represent immense values, many that are perfect for cassoulet, hearty stews, and other foods that help our warm winter-weary bones. Grab this opportunity to discover these reds that once stained the teeth of kings.

Check Chambers Street Wines for availability.